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Showing posts with label Dogs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dogs. Show all posts

Paper Training Your Dog

By Admin

Paper training your dog: How to do it and common problems

What’s paper training?

Paper training is a specific form of house training for your dog: you’re teaching her where in the house is appropriate for her to eliminate (pee or poop). When you paper train your dog, you teach her to only eliminate on newspapers (chosen for their absorbency, ready availability, and cheap cost) which you gather up and throw away after each use.

What options other than paper training do I have for my dog’s house training?
There are two ways of effectively, efficiently, and rapidly house training your dog. Paper training is one; the other is something called crate training.

Crate training is based on a dog’s basic dislike of soiling where she sleeps, and involves restricting the dog’s movement (by putting her in a crate, or small indoor kennel) whenever she cannot be actively supervised.

The difference between crate training and house training?

Paper training and crate training aren’t the same thing. Crate training is where you train your dog to only go outside; paper training is where you train your dog to only go on newspapers.

You cannot train your dog to do both at the same time – the two are mutually exclusive. She’ll get confused, and you’ll only prolong the training process.

You can choose to use paper training as an intermediary step for eventually only eliminating outside (although not everyone recommends this: it’s easier on the dog, and more effective all round, to choose one method and stick with it.)

Why should I choose paper training instead of crate training?

Crate training and paper training are both effective ways to house train your dog.

In general, it’s accepted (by most dog trainers and vets) that crate training is the fastest method of house training your dog; but it requires a considerable investment of time and effort, which is not an option for everyone.

Paper training is the best option for you if:

- You don’t have easy access to a yard (for example, you live in a hi-rise apartment block)

- It’s not easy for you to take your dog outside for any other reason (for example, elderly or unwell people)

- You have a full-time job, or other time-consuming commitment which can’t be got around (meaning that you’re not able to spend the large amounts of time supervising your dog that crate training requires)

- You’re planning on training your dog to go outside the house eventually, but not just yet (for example, it’s the dead of winter with four-foot snow drifts outside)

Crate training is the best option for you if:

- You have a medium to big dog

- You are able to spend a lot of time during your puppy’s first weeks of house training in actively supervising her, and are available during the day to let her out of the crate at two- or three-hour intervals

- You want to train your dog to go outside the house right from the start

Paper training isn’t suitable for all dogs: it really only works for small males and small-to-medium females, since a dog larger than these just produces too much waste for the newspaper (and you!) to handle.

How to paper train your dog?

First, pick a convenient area of the house for your dog to use as the elimination area. Because she’s going to be peeing and pooping in this area, it’s best if you can choose somewhere without carpet: most people choose a corner of the kitchen or laundry (since these rooms usually have tiled or linoleum floors, making hygiene a non-issue.)

Spread newspaper thickly in a corner of this room. At first, you’ll need to make the newspaper area pretty big, since your pup has no idea that she’s meant to go on the paper at all.

To make sure that she’s able to eliminate only on the paper, you’ll either need to restrict her movements to the papered area of the floor (which you can do by erecting barriers to keep her in – if the room you’ve chosen is large or busy, this is probably the most user-friendly option for you), or paper the whole floor (which is a viable option if the paper-room is small and there’s not much thoroughfare.)

At first, your puppy will eliminate pretty much at random on the paper. It’s important for the paper-training process that she only gets to go on the paper – you need her to form a strong association between the feeling of paper under her toes, and relieving herself.

After a week or two, you can begin to shrink the papered area of the floor, allowing her more access to unpapered surfaces (leave the barriers where they are for now so she doesn’t get the chance to eliminate anywhere else.)

Do this gradually, a couple of sheets at a time. If you’ve given her enough time to get used to the paper, she should naturally restrict her elimination areas as the papered area shrinks.

NOTE: If at any time she begins to eliminate off the paper, then increase the size of the papered floor surface to the size it was when she was still eliminating only on the paper, and give her more time to get used to it before beginning to reduce the papered area again.

There’s no need to panic: this doesn’t mean that the paper training isn’t working, it just means you’re moving a bit too fast for your puppy’s capabilities.

Most dogs take a couple of months (eight to twelve weeks) to get used to the paper training method. Until she’s reliably going on the papers only, you should restrict her access to the rest of the house unless you’re actively supervising her- which means 100% of your attention is focused on the pup.

In general, a good rule of thumb is that your puppy is confined to the papered area unless she’s sleeping, eating, or being played with/actively supervised.

Things you should do are

- Praise her effusively whenever you see her eliminating on the paper. Wait 'til she’s done (so you don’t distract her!) and praise her, pet her, and give her a treat.

- If you catch her in the act of eliminating off-paper, this is actually a great opportunity for training development. Interrupt her with a clap, loud verbalization (“Ah-ah-aaaah!”), or slap your open palm loudly on the wall. This will startle her – in most cases, she’ll actually stop mid-toilet and hunch down. Scoop her up immediately and put her on the paper. When she finishes, praise her hugely and give her a treat.

- If you come across an accident after the fact (a wet spot or pile on the unpapered floor), you’ve missed your window of opportunity to teach her not to do this. You can’t tell her off in this case, because she won’t understand what she’s done wrong; all you can do is clean it up and supervise her more carefully. If this is happening a lot, you’ve given her too much freedom in the house and not enough supervision: restrict her access to the unpapered floor, and step up the supervision.

- Feed her at specific, scheduled times (for example, a meal at 8 am, 1 pm, and 7 pm) to encourage her to develop an “elimination timetable”.

For further information on house training your dog, including a detailed look at paper training and crate training, check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.

It’s the complete dog-house-training guide. The Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.

You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking this link:

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External Parasites and Their Treatments

By Admin


WHAT IS A PARASITE?

Foreign parasites are pretty familiar among dogs. A sponge is an cause that lives off the resources your dog has to worship: viz., hot execution (which most parasites engulf) and a close area to edict (in and on the rind and fur).

What are the unrefined parasites that might concern my dog?
There are a inaccurate represent of parasites that strike dogs:

- Fleas
- Ticks
- Mites
- Lice

All of these parasites crusade unfavourable reactions in your dog: typically, itching and inflamed pare, a heavy coat, and denuded symptom. In advanced cases, your dog may produce anemia (gore going) and become generally enfeebled (especially if he or she is really immature, very old, or excruciation from another assumption).

In constituent to this, some parasites convey unessential and inner parasites to your dog - for ideal, fleas commonly transfer the demotic flatworm (which causes degradation and flatulency), and ticks can make a tracheophyte of overmuch more grave problems suchlike Lyme's disease and disfunction.

In today's report, we're feat to be sensing at fleas: what they are, how to archer if your dog's stricken, and how to get rid of them.

A Fireman Seem AT FLEAS

Fleas are without proposal the number-one most average international parasite touching dogs. They're flyspeck, actuation insects that are featherlike brownish in colorise, tho' humans generally can't see them - they change more too quickly for that!

Fleas whippy off your dog's slaying. The lifespan bike of a flea moves very rapidly from arrange one (egg) to travelling quaternity (someone flea), which way they're open of multiplying with staggering rapidity.

An adult flea lays hundreds of foodstuff per day. Apiece egg gift then become an grown flea, which lay hundreds many foodstuff of its own. One flea becomes a outstanding difficulty really rapidly!

HOW TO Request IF YOUR DOG HAS FLEAS

The symptoms of a flea infestation are unmistakable.
A dog with a flea infection will mark nearly constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to upgrade: the ears, the supposal of the cut, the swell, and the jam (the webbing of downy peel between the serving and the stomach).

It's actually the saliva of the flea that causes the botheration, not the prick itself, and few dogs human a veritable allergy to this saliva (as opposed to a accepted aggression). Dogs with allergies suffer more more earthshaking counter reactions to a flea infection, and usually acquire "hot spots".

These hot symptom are areas of painful, light, flaking, haemorrhage, and purulent tegument, caused by the flea saliva and your dog's own activity to it. Open patches leave sometimes develop too, from repeated scratching and current arousal.

If you judge your dog has fleas, you can support your suspicions by taking a finisher sensing at his tegument: you probably won't be able to see the fleas themselves, but you should be healthy to see what looks similar ground seasoning (a scarecrowish sprinkling of powdered somebody grains) on his skin. This is flea dejection (details).

If you prettify him with a flea disentangle (which is equivalent a fine-tooth hairdressing), try wiping it on a report towel: if red blotches show up on the towel, you live that your dog has fleas (on a designer interference equal a press towel, flea ninny shows up red: since fleas subsist on slaying, their ninny is bicolored accordingly).

Management FOR FLEAS

Because fleas exclusive spend a wee amount of case actually on your dog, and the quietus of their abstraction jumping finished your concern birth foodstuff and supply on human blood, it's not enough to honourable supply the dog: you also screw to place his substance, the whole domiciliate, all anthropomorphic litter, and the field (yes, fleas lay foodstuff all through the yard, too. Symmetric if it's polar outside, you're not needs off the lick: frigorific windward doesn't obliterate flea eggs, it fitting puts the

You'll pauperization a broad-spectrum management which kills not exclusive the mature fleas (which are the ones that chomp), but also any processing fleas, and the eggs.

Bar IS THE Incomparable (AND THE EASIEST!)

Bar is definitely the superior help - you should sustenance your dog's flea treatments up to appointment with the use of a calendar, and use a direction that's formal by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments aren't recommended, since various dogs compel polar strengths depending on their size, age, and process levels. A component help of formal flea direction is that most are also organized to forbid else parasites (same mites, ticks, and heartworm) from affecting your dog.

FOR AN EXISTING Infection

If your dog already has fleas, you know two options:

- You can 'bomb' the refuge and parcel with a flea-pesticide. These arise as foggers (which surface apiece populate, and the curtilage, in a book mist of liquid) and sprays (which are applied manually to apiece appear throughout the business and yard), and though they're real impelling in profit fleas and foodstuff, there's one leading drawback: they're highly noxious to humans, dogs, and the surround. Depending on your priorities, this is belike the quickest result to a flea problem (and give effectively rub out the foodstuff, too) but if you score anyone in the concern with allergies or a upbeat statement - including pets! - you strength requisite to consider again.

- A author health-friendly deciding is to aim the dog with a topical anti-flea result regular by the vet (similar Advantage or Revolution), and to rigorously decent the concern on a regularised basis until the flea problem has departed. This way vacuuming each position thoroughly apiece day - put a flea nab in with the region bag to end any fleas that get sucked up - and watercolor all imperfect and dog matter in hot irrigate as ofttimes as you can (erstwhile every day or every two life is advisable). You'll be able to recite when the problem's expended because your dog won't be scratching, and his surface testament be luculent of flea ordure when you inspect it.

WHAT NOT TO DO Virtually FLEAS

- Don't use triplex products on your dog - it'll form him sick, since you'll be overloading his grouping with toxins.
- Don't lose to initiate all the animals in the house at the homophonic period: cat and dog fleas are similar, and if one cranelike has fleas, they all gift get them, flush if some are not displaying the symptoms.
- Flea collars are no individual advisable as a harmless deciding for flea bar, since the collars are highly unhealthful - vets screw realized that placing a venomous relevant directly against your pet's skin for abundant periods of term (flea collars hump to be ratty 24/7 to be effective) is harmful to your dog's upbeat.

FOR Statesman Collection ON PARASITES AND THEIR Management...

Fleas are retributory one of the some, many types of parasites that regard your dog. To conclude out solon about the dead bar and handling of all types of parasites (extraneous and interior), as wellspring as a spaciotemporal run to all aspects of dog health, submit a wait at The Last Enchiridion to Dog Wellbeing.

This accumulation is an invaluable inventiveness for the liable dog owner, and will ply you to insure that your dog relic blissful and thriving - conscionable the way you poorness him to be!

You can canvass out the production by clicking on the tie beneath: Kingdom Pets

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Destructive Chewing

By Admin

The act of chewing seems to be a matter of individual preference among dogs: some have an innate desire to chew as a pleasurable activity in itself, and some seem to have no need to chew whatsoever unless they’re driven to it out of sheer boredom.

The phrase “destructive chewing” may sound redundant, because – by its very nature! – all chewing is destructive. Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is probably going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that’s focused on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.

The three main reasons why dogs chew:

- Most dogs have a natural desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)

- Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

- Underexercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

- How to prevent destructive chewing -

Dogs are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff – you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.

1. Take control of the situation: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there’s still no reason to test her self-control – after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths.

Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don’t want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something’s out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don’t leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops – you’d be surprised how acrobatic she can be when there’s food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

2. Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jawful of a forbidden substance – a chair-leg, a pillow, a running shoe – the more readily she’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it’s a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means confining her in a dog-proofed area until you’re confident of her understanding of the house rules.

3. Don’t set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t offer your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t possibly expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

4. Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can hardly blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard – but that’s boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either (if you wanted a pet that you don’t need to interact with, you’d have got a goldfish, right?) She can’t learn what you expect of her if she’s spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.

6. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble.

- Maintain a productive attitude -

Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s likely to be at least one incident where a cherished item is damaged by her curiosity.

Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s completely reliable (and even then, if she’s left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to occupy her time and jaws with.) Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn faster – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she’s got the hang of the chewing rules!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

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Separation Anxiety in Dogs

By Admin

Being alone can be really frightening, especially when you are a kid. A natural reaction of a child when left alone is to cry. We have all gone through this when we were young, We were always glued to our parents, especially to our moms. We do not want to be away from them. This is human instinct since when we were born, our mom is the first person that we lay our eyes on. in fact, we've already formed an attachment when we were still inside our mother's womb.

Being left alone can be very emotional and stressful. It can be a difficult experience. But this fear of being isolated is not only exclusively felt by human beings. Animals are no exception. Even dogs, considered to be man's best friend, suffer the same emotional predicament.

Dogs are naturally social creatures, they are pack animals. Like babies that develop an attachment to their  mothers, dogs, too, develop a very strong bond with their canine female parents. These pups would only want to be with their turf, where the mother or father can guard them or provide food through the female dog's mammary glands.  But once this canine family attachment is dissolved, the dog immediately turns its attention to their owner or caretaker.

Dogs that become too dependent on their owners also do not want to be left alone.  When dogs are left alone by their owners, they become really upset. As “dog depression”upset sets in, they become restless and even destructive  This condition is called Separation Anxiety.

Separation anxiety in dogs is one of the most common canine behavioral problems encountered by veterinarians and seasoned dog breeders.  Dogs can develop separation anxiety much faster if they do not have enough “socialization”.  It can also occur if a dog is repeatedly transferred from one owner to another.  Dogs that came from animal shelters and dogs that experienced traumatic events such as being in the house during a fire, during a burglary attempt, or while an alarm system sounded may show signs of anxiety.

A dog suffering from separation anxiety will become extremely anxious and distressed.  Some signs of distress in your dog may include any of the following:

·    Excessive barking and whining when left alone
·    Incessant chewing on variety of things and destroys objects
·    Urinate, defecate and vomit in different locations in the house.
·    Demands too much attention from you when you are at home
·    Gets overly excited when you return home

Dogs that fail to cope with a sudden change in environment may also develop separation anxiety. It is often difficult to treat this condition because the behavior only occurs when the owner is not around. It can also be alarming when the owner leaves for an extended period of time.

Experts say that there are medications that can suppress anxiety. These are often used on dogs with severe separation anxiety or when owners simply must leave the dog alone for an extended period while treatment is being done. The use of drugs allows the dog to spend extended periods of time free of anxiety. A veterinarian should be consulted for further information about the use of safe and effective anxiety- suppressing drugs.

These are other ways to reduce separation anxiety in your dog:
·    Make arrivals and departures very low key
·    Give your dog something to do when he is alone
·    Plan your exits
·    Leave a radio or TV on so he can listen to human voices when left alone
·    Confine your dog in a crate that will also serve him as shelter
·    Exercise your dogs

It is important to take immediate measures once you suspect that your dog has this condition. Visit a veterinarian and inquire about a dog stress treatment program. Keep in mind that your pet's disorder can be treated and that they also need proper care and attention. So, if you noticed that your dog is so stuck on you, you might consider taking your “best friend” to the veterinarian.

If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors. All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too.

You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below: http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/separationanxiety






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How to Take Care of your Dog

By Admin

The Bond that can come between a person and a dog can be extremely strong, especially if that bond had been strengthened living with each other for many years, I have personally cried after loosing our family dog that had been like a best friend to me from my birth till I as 15 years old, when he was hit by a car one morning.

Dogs serve many different needs for people. Some people get a dog because they are lonely and need a loyal friend or because they want a dog to protect the home. A dog that is taken good care of and given attention to regularly will give his life to help protect his home and his owner. For the blind a dog can be a pair of eyes to help them get around and for the police a dog can be an important tool and a loyal partner, with a nose that nothing can beat.

The first thing you need to know about taking care of a dog is that dogs need lots of exercise. This is the same for large dogs and small dogs. All dogs need to be let out at least once every 8 hours and should given at least a 20 minute walk to give the dog some fresh air, exercise and a chance to relieve themselves.

It is also important to play with the dog on a regular basis. This can mean going to the park on a weekend or day off and having a good game of fetch, tossing the ball around in your back yard or just wrestling on the ground with the dog, just make sure if you are ruff housing with a little dog that you don’t accidentally hurt the dog. Playing with the dog for a half hour a day, is not only good for the dogs physical health but a dig that is played with regularly is mentally healthier and less likely to become a depressed dog, it also lowers your blood pressure as well and it will form an unbreakable bond between you and your pooch, which will extend to your family if you should start having one after having the dog.

What you feed your dog is very important to the dogs continued good health. The better dog foods will be marked for what are groups the food is appropriate for. Younger dogs need certain vitamins and minerals in larger amounts then an adult dog, and the same goes for an elderly dog they need more calcium in their food to help protect their bones and joints. Feeding your dog the wrong food can stunt the dog's growth and opens the dog to a larger risk of surgery when they are older.

Just like a person a dog should be taken to the veterinarian's office every 6 months, and must receive their shots every year. Regular checkups and vaccinations will also help assure that your dog grows to be an old happy dog.



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Best Selling Dog Books

By Admin

1. HOW TO RAISE A PUPPY YOU CAN LIVE WITH, 4TH EDITION by Clarice Rutherford & David Neil

This puppy book starts way back with your breeder and steps you through all the processes to make sure you can raise a puppy the right way. It touches on the subjects of selecting breeders, bonding with puppies, discipline, house training, tricks and simple commands.

RAW DOG FOOD: MAKE IT EASY FOR YOU AND YOUR DOG by Carina Beth MacDonald

This offbeat, light read received the Dog Writers of America Award for Best Book Under 100 pages for the year 2003. It is a funny, informative book on how raw diets can actually benefit dogs while being cost-efficient at the same time. This is a must-read book for those grappling with their dog's diet.

2. CAUTIOUS CANINE, 2ND EDITION by Patricia McConnell

This book is so handy it could even benefit people. Patricia McConnell walks the reader through training techniques such as counter conditioning and desensitization to deal with behavioral problems and phobias. It works with people too.

3. RALLY-O: THE STYLE OF RALLY OBEDIENCE, 3RD EDITION by Charles 'Bud' Kramer

Rally obedience advocates an exciting and fun approach to dog obedience. It's a surefire way for the dog and its owner to enjoy their training sessions. If one were to look for an effective, non-burdensome way to train to dogs, this should be in their shelves.  ONE ON ONE - A DOG TRAINER'S GUIDE TO PRIVATE TRAINING by Nicole Wilde

An intimate training guide to those new to one-on-one training sessions. It is an easily understandable, yet comprehensive guide to private training and focuses on the intricacies of the training psyche and the dog's response to such.

POSITIVE PERSPECTIVES: LOVE YOUR DOG, TRAIN YOUR DOG by Pat Miller

Almost a book about children. This groundbreaking read will change the way you view pet behavior management and pet upbringing. This comprehensive course emphasizes the emotional aspect of training and behavior modification. Also in this book: vaccination, training with treats, and housetraining.

BRINGING LIGHT TO SHADOW - A DOG TRAINER'S DIARY by Pamela Dennison

An inspirational story of how one trainer refused to give up on an ill-tempered dog with behavioral problems. It is a diary of sorts that deals with the issues, frustrations, solutions, and the patience it takes for one to deal with such difficult dogs. It is a fascinating read that should inspire every dog trainer.

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Boring Ordinary Dog Tags

By Admin

Are There Better-looking Personalized Dog Tags Out There?

I was wondering if you share the same problem as myself 5 months back?

You see. I failed to find any unique or good-looking personalized dog tags anywhere – online or offline!

The search mission for a better-looking tag started when my girlfriend, Alice bought a new Chihuahua pup – Misty. While looking for a dog tag, she complained to me that most of the dog tags available are both too ordinary and actually boring looking...

"C'mon, there must be better-looking ones..." I assured her confidently and went online to look for one.

To my surprise, I can’t find any! All the tags I found online are deemed boring and not unique at all… at least according to her standard.

I even went to the local pet shops – the dog tags there are not any better, if not worse. Ordinary engraved dog tags – I guess they must have been around for at least 15 years. And they still look the same today. Amazing!!!

Ok, I admit. I did find some good-looking personalized dog tags online – there are some high-end ones, such as sapphire, real silver, gold, and even diamond embedded dog tags. But seriously, I’m just not prepared to pay hundreds on a dog tag! I’ll rather spend the money on better grooming services or maybe on her food.

I’m looking for something in the range of maybe 10-20 dollars maximum.

2 days later… I gave up. I simply can’t find any! I decided to custom make one for Misty – to keep Alice happy of course. ;-)

With the help of a friend, Lee who is in the plaque business and with his (trade secret) coating technique, I can basically put any artwork, graphic and even image onto the tag. I went on to design Misty’s personalized dog tag.

Using the idea of a newborn baby permit I saw online, a good-looking (newborn pet permit) tag with Alice’s contact information and Misty’s image was made.

Alice was happy when she saw the tag. It was unique, personalized, and one of its kind. It was special, just like her pup – Misty.

But… her happiness did not last long. The tag was not scratch-resistant! The design started to peel off slowly. It was good-looking… but not functional.

Frustrated but not about to give up, (seriously, I don’t have any solution at all then) Lee then coated the tag with his company’s patented protective coating.

Problem solved! Misty's personalized dog tag is now scratch-resistant and anti-tarnish (image won’t turn yellowish over time) because of the coating. It was even better-looking now! Because the coating leaves the tag with a beautiful glossy finished.

8 weeks of research and development (definitely much longer if without my Lee’s help, this article may makes it look easy... trust me. its not.), close to a thousand dollars spent. A good-looking, highly personalized dog tag was born.

“Was it worth all the effort?” If you ask me, I seriously don’t have the answer.

But I admit I did learn a lot from this experience… and of course in the process Dogcustomer.com was born. I’ll leave that story to another day.

My stand is that Misty won’t feel the difference between wearing a conventional engrave dog tag or a highly personalized good-looking dog tag. Only Alice will… and only Alice will understand why she wants that...


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Bichon Keeps Scratching Neck

By Admin

Bichon Keeps Scratching Neck... Is It Physical Or Behavioral?

Dear Adam:

I have appreciated your advice in both your book and your tapes.

My male Bichon is a very good dog, gentle yet playful, minds well, and treats me as the pack leader. He comes when I call, goes in his crate at night with only one "kennel up" command and is a general all around good dog.

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One problem that I have been unable to break him of is scratching his neck area to the point that it bleeds. He knows that he shouldn't do this and quits immediately when I say something to him. I have taken him to the vet on three separate occasions.

He has received an antihistamine shot, been treated with Cortaid and anti-itch spray, had flee treatment, bathed with hypo allergenic shampoo and conditioner, been given a special diet, and none of this made any difference. The last visit to the vet he prescribed a mild tranquilizer coupled with hormone treatment. He quit scratching almost immediately but he was somewhat lethargic. I cut out the hormone treatment and cut his tranquilizer in half, under advisement of the vet. He now scratches only moderately but I am hesitant to increase his tranquilizer dosage back up to where it was. Also, I don't see any end to this form of treatment.  As a trainer I wondered if you had ever encountered this before and whether you had any recommendations I might try other than the tranquilizer. In my opinion this just masks the problem and does not fix it. I would appreciate any suggestions you might have.

Sincerely,
Gordon

Gordon,

No, this is most likely a physical problem... not a behavioral one.

You might try finding another vet. to get a second opinion and see another approach to it. My question would be: Why is he scratching? It's not the collar, is it?

[Gordon replies:] Since he started scratching (about 3 months ago) he has not worn a collar. One vet shaved his neck area and it shows no sign of any irritation. I believe it to be something psychological and the vet (I have seen two) tends to agree with me; ergo, the tranquilizer. In any event I do appreciate you responding.

[Adam:] You might look into anti-anxiety drugs, if you feel this is the case. Have your veterinarian call around and find out. Prozac-type drugs will probably work better than just tranquilizing the dog.

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Belgian Tervuren - An Energetic Worker

By Admin

One of four Belgian Sheepdogs, the Belgian Tervuren is often mistaken for a German Shepherd because they closely resemble each other in size, coat and color. It is pronounced Ter-VER-en. The Belgian Tervuren is recognized as its own breed by the AKC, but many countries consider all four Belgian Sheepdogs to be one breed even though there are noticeable differences in everything from coat to size to color.

Also known as a "Terv" by their owners, the Belgian Tervuren is named for the Belgian village of Tervuren. They were traditionally used as cattle and sheep herding dogs. They have also been used as police dogs and in narcotics detection, bomb detection, search and rescue and as therapy dogs. While two of the Belgian Sheepdogs are still used more as working dogs, the Belgian Tervuren and Belgian Groenendael are both seen more as companion dogs today.

They are a medium to medium large breed. They weigh between 45-75 pounds and are anywhere from 22" to 27" in height. They are an energetic, powerful breed that enjoys exercise and play. Because of their high energy and size, they are not ideal apartment dogs but are perfect for families with large yards or those who have access to parks or fields where they can run.

Their coat color is recognized by the AKC in the colors of a mahogany or fawn base with black tips, mask and ears. A small amount of white on nose, chest and chin is permissible. The long, straight, thick and harsh outer coat and soft dense undercoat needs daily grooming to prevent matting and knots. They shed throughout the year, but it is typically light shedding.

As a guard dog or family dog, the Belgian Tervuren is protective, loyal and highly intelligent. They are energetic dogs that need plenty of exercise and activity whether they are working on the farm or kept mainly as a companion dog. They need to be socialized and trained from an early age. The earlier they are introduced to children, dogs and other pets, the better they will do. They might be dominant towards other dogs. It is important to research a Belgian Tervuren's history before making a purchase to ensure that there is no aggression found in their lineage. Give your Belgian Tervuren plenty to do and they will be happy. A bored Belgian Tervuren can be a bit destructive as they will find a way to fill their time.

If you are an energetic family looking for a dog that will enjoy activity and outside play, then the Belgian Tervuren is a perfect breed for you. They will match you step for step in running or walking. They will be protective of you and your home and make awesome watchdogs. If you are looking for a farm dog and family companion all rolled into one, any of the Belgian Sheepdogs including the Belgian Tervuren will be ideal for you.


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Bearded Collie - Great For The Family

By Admin

The Bearded Collie is a medium sized dog that weighs between 40-58 pounds. They are 20" to 22" in height. Their abundant hair gives the impression that they are larger than they actually are. They have a happy, friendly nature and are not watch dogs in any way as they are friendly with all that they meet.

Recognized by the AKC, the acceptable coat colors for the Bearded Collie are black, grey, tan, brown or fawn with some white markings. When they are puppies, they may or may not have white markings. As they mature, their coat color either fades or changes. The most common colors are black with white or gray with white. Their long, harsh, straight and shaggy outer coat and short, soft, thick undercoat requires a daily brushing to prevent tangles. Their nickname is "beardie" because of the long, shaggy hair under their chin.

This energetic, loving, happy-go-lucky breed makes an excellent family pet. They are people dogs and love to be with their family. They are wonderful for homes with children and other dogs and can do well with other non-canine pets provided they have early socialization. They are enthusiastic, outgoing, and lively and require plenty of exercise and play time. They need a yard to run and roam. Having toys on hand is a good idea if you are going to be gone for an extended period of time. Early training is recommended because they have a stubborn tendency at times. They are easy to train.

Dating back over 500 years, the Bearded Collie originated in Scotland. They are considered to be descendents of the Polish sheepdog. They were bred to heard sheep and cattle, thus explaining their collie name which means herding dog in Scotland. They have also been used for tracking. They are still used as sheep herding dogs in some areas.

Friendly to family and strangers alike, the Bearded Collie will greet all he meets with enthusiasm. Because they require regular outdoor exercise and play, they are best with active families who will give them the activity that they need. Homes with other dogs and children can feel confident in adding a Bearded Collie to their family.

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How To Train An Aggressive Dog

By Admin

Training An American Pit Bull Terrier

Aggressive Pit Bulls can become a very serious problem if not dealt with in a proper manner. New laws exist that state if a dog bites or attacks someone, the dog’s owner will be held responsible and the dog put down. This is just another reason that Pit Bull owners should invest the time and energy to properly train their dogs.

There are many different reasons why a Pit Bull terrier may become aggressive. Here are a couple of the most common that I see:

- Your dog may feel that his territory is being invaded
- Your dog may feel threatened

When a dog exhibits signs of aggression, they usually come from a lack of confidence and feelings of insecurity. Basic obedience training won't solve your Pit Bull’s problem with aggressive behavior, the only solution is serious dog training. Keep in mind that an aggressive dog doesn't just bite, he barks and lunges at people as well and he could also attack another pet.

I would strongly recommend seeking the services of a professional dog trainer if you're having a real problem with aggression. Training an aggressive dog is a challenge and can prove to be expensive, but it is a small price to pay when you consider you'll be saving your Pit's life and possibly the life of some other animal or individual. To find a professional trainer who handles cases of aggression, contact your local veterinarian and ask for referrals.

Be sure that you do your homework and thoroughly investigate the schools which are recommended. Look at their facilities and learn what methods they use when training dogs. The last thing you want is for your Pit Bull to exhibit worse behavior after going through training school than when he first entered.

I applaud your decision to be a responsible Pit Bull terrier owner and have your dog trained. An aggressive Pit can halter the relationship that you have with him, hurt other people, hurt other animals, and give this fabulous breed a bad reputation. After it is all said and done, I'm certain you'll agree that having your Pit Bull trained was a fantastic decision!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

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Breaking Your Pit Bull Terrier's Jumping Habit

By Admin

Dog Training Help to Break a Pit Bull's Jumping Habit

As you have probably already learned, Pit Bulls are highly energetic animals. They love to run and play, and get excited easily. One of the more annoying habits they develop at a young age is jumping. Jumping can be particularly annoying when they do it as a way of greeting, especially if it is young child or someone who is afraid of dogs. Teaching your Pit Bull to curb this behavior is not an easy task, but is your responsibility as a Pit Bull owner.

Many people have stopped their Pit Bulls from jumping on them by using treats. When they come inside, they throw some treats on the floor, and then greet their dog while his attention is fixed on the treats. The treats usually work as a good distraction to pull your Pit Bull’s attention away from jumping on you. If you don’t like using treats to train your Pit Bull, or if the method just doesn’t work well for you, then you have to try other ideas to train your Pit Bull not to jump.

One thing you can try is teaching your Pit Bull that it is nicer to sit than jump. Go outside, leaving your Pit Bull inside, then come back in and calmly greet him. If your Pit Bull starts to jump on you, turn your back to him, and ignore him. When your Pit Bull puts all four feet back on the floor, turn back around and pet him. If he starts to jump on you again, turn back around and ignore him. This will teach your Pit Bull that when he jumps, he doesn’t get any attention, but that if he sits nicely you will pet him. This technique may take quite a while for your Pit Bull to learn, especially if he is a very excitable dog. But, if you stick with it long enough, he should learn that jumping is not going to gain him anything other than losing your attention. Once you get your Pit Bull thru this step, try to teach him to sit still for a few moments before you acknowledge him. If he gets up, use the same routine of ignoring him, and then when he sits down, pet him again. This would also be a good time to try to teach him to shake hands when he greets people, rather than jumping on them.

You can also further entice your Pit Bull to not jump by tempting him and then rewarding and praising him for his good behavior. Hold treats up in the air so that your Pit Bull will have to jump to get them. If he jumps, ignore him, and when he is calm try again. When he is able to remain seated, praise him, give him the treats, and some extra attention. He will soon learn that by behaving the way you want him to, he will not only get extra attention, but some extra treats as well, which is double incentive for him to obey.

Another method that tends to work well in teaching your Pit Bull not to jump is to have a designated place for your Pit Bull, and teach him to go there when you need him to, for example, when someone is at the door. To start this training, you will need to pick the spot, and put maybe a bed or blanket and some of his favorite toys there. When the spot is ready, spend some time with him while he is there. Giving him special attention and treats will help him attribute the spot as a good place that he wants to spend time at. As your Pit Bull becomes accustomed to his place, start sending him there occasionally. At first, you will want to be close to the spot, and eventually move farther and farther away from it as your dog learns. Make it a point to give him special attention and treats each time he goes to his spot when you ask him to. Eventually, your Pit Bull will learn that by going to his spot when you ask him to, that you will reward him for it.

The biggest thing you can do to help your Pit Bull learn not to jump is to keep your own greetings calm. I know it is hard when you have been away from him all day not to come in and play and wrestle with him, but this will only get him more excited, and he will expect this same attention from everyone that enters the house. Until you can completely break the jumping habit, it may be best to ignore him for the first few minutes you come home, and then play with him once he settles down. It may take a little time, but your Pit Bull will soon learn how to tone down his excitement.

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

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“Hybrid” Dog – Isn’t that Just Another Word for Mutt?

By Admin

Every day we hear more about the new “hybrid” dogs, or “designer” dogs. Each feature is accompanied by pictures of adorable puppies that are examples of this new “breed.”

Of course they’re cute! All puppies are! Should you pay hundreds, and in some cases, thousands of dollars for one? Certainly not! The offspring of a mating between two purebred dogs of different breeds is a mongrel, a mutt. And if you have one, you should love it, train it and care for it as if it had the bluest blood of the canine kingdom.

Every dog breed, and there are hundreds in the world, was “created” by humans. Each breed was developed for a specific purpose – whether that original job was guarding the flock or being the ideal lap-dog. There’s no reason that development shouldn’t continue. If there is a need for a dog with particular characteristics, enterprising individuals will come forward to fill that need.

However, it takes many generations to “breed true.” Compare yourself to your siblings. Do you all have the same looks, same personality, same interests and strengths? Chances are, you don’t. Each of you has some of the “best” traits of your parents. But those may not be the same traits. And each of you has some of the worst.

Two of the best-known mixed-breeds out there now are the “Golden Doodle” and the “Puggle.”  The thinking behind these crosses is fairly obvious: wouldn’t it be nice to have a Golden Retriever’s personality and willingness to please combined with the Poodle’s non-shedding coat and intelligence? Wouldn’t it be equally delightful to have a small dog without the breathing issues of a Pug, but quieter than a Beagle?

But there is no way of knowing you won’t get a high-strung, noisy, stubborn, slobbering mutt who sheds like the dickens!

If you are considering spending the kind of money that these “hybrids” are commanding, be sure to research all of the traits of the contributing breeds. You will get a mixture of the two. And an equally adorable mixture may be waiting for you at your local shelter – the size you want, with the coat you want and the adorable face that melts your heart.

If you require certain characteristics in your puppy – whether a family member has allergies, or you have a very small, or no yard, or your household requires a quiet, “easy keeper,” or if you wish to fully participate in the world of canine competition, consider a pure-bred animal. There are over 150 breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club. Research them at www.akc.org. Surely one of them is right for you.


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4 to 8 Dog Agility Jumps Makes Ideal Training

By Admin

We are often asked, "How many jumps should I start with?"  You can never have too many single jumps to practice agility.  A good starting place is four jumps.  This is the absolute minimum number of jumps that we recommend. 

You can teach a variety of skills, drills, and exercises with four jumps.  Four jumps will allow you to work on a short jump chute or jump grid.  You can setup a "box" with your jumps and practice handling, collection, and 270 degree jumps.  You can teach your dog jumping left and right.  You can be outside the box and send your dog or you can handle from the inside of the box.  Your jumps can be setup in a horizontal line, so that you can practice serpentine and threadles.

Go the next step and get eight jumps.  Now you can setup two boxes with one introductory jump.  You've now multiplied your drills that you can practice with your dog.  Your jump grids can be of recommended size and quantity of jumps.  You can also setup your jumps in a circle with the jump bars perpendicular to the circle or on the circumference of the circle.  This pattern also enables you to train a variety of skills.

Your next consideration is a double jump and a triple jump.  You could set two or three single jumps together to make your expanded jump, but having double and triple jump in your course work is really valuable to practice.  We've seen many dogs run a clean course and the last obstacle is a triple and the dog is not prepared for it, and bang, down comes the bar.

You can really be ahead of the pack and have two sets of eight jumps.  This is the ultimate in training because you can keep a jump grip up at all times that is separate from your course work, and have eight single jumps to have for course work.  And when you include your double and triple, you can really practice all the jumping skills and drills necessary to get you those "Qs".

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

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5 Tips For Training Dogs Successfully

By Admin

Training dogs is not a hard. You just need patience, dedication and some simple tactics and you will teach them successfully.

Here are five top tips on how to train your dogs successfully:

1. To avoid your dog getting confused and so that they can learn to recognize commands easily only one person should be responsible for training the dog initially. If too many people are trying to train the dog at the same time this can stop progress in its tracks.

2. You should use positive reinforcements. If the dog does something good, you should reward this behavior so that he will know that what he did was right. If the dog cannot understand or follow your commands, never push him. Dogs are not as intelligent as humans, they make mistakes. What you should understand is that they won’t easily understand your commands in just one teaching, it takes repetition to train a dog successfully. Do not scold your dog as he might develop fear which will hinder his learning and willingness to be trained. You can use treats in order to encourage your dogs, although don’t overdue it.

3. Teach commands one at a time. Try to teach him one command after the other. If he cannot absorb it, try to stay on that command only because adding additional commands will just confuse the dog. Start with the basics.

4. In executing commands, you should keep your voice cheerful so that the dog will happily follow your commands. Dogs will respond to a low and coaxing voice. If you shout out loud, he may become startled and unresponsive.

5. Train your dog in various places. If you keep your dogs in a certain place like your home, he will not be able to adjust with the environment new people. Take him to the park or through the neighborhood. This will help your dog associate with other dogs and people.

Training your dog can sometime be tough, but it will be worth it. In the end, you will be the one to benefit when your dog is trained. You don’t know he might even save your life one day and pay back everything you taught him.

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.




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